Tree trimming is the core of what I do. I climb most jobs myself, so nothing gets rushed or butchered by a crew in a hurry. I take out the deadwood, clear the roof and the lane, and bring the crown back into balance without rounding it off into a ball. This guide walks you through what tree trimming is, why it matters, when to call, and what happens from the first phone call to the day I leave your property clean.
What tree trimming actually is
Tree trimming is the selective removal of branches to improve the structure, health and appearance of a tree. It is not topping. When I trim a tree, I remove dead wood first, then branches that cross or rub against each other, then any limbs that are growing inward or downward in a way that unbalances the crown. What remains looks like a tree that has been cared for, not a lollipop or a mushroom.
On the south side of Edmonton, I spend most of my time trimming enormous old American elm over the heritage streets, and green ash on the post-war boulevards. Both species respond well to careful pruning, but both can be ruined by careless cutting. An elm that has been topped will spend the next twenty years trying to heal itself, growing dense, weak shoots that are more likely to break in a windstorm. A properly trimmed elm will hold its shape and its strength for decades.
Trimming is different from removal. Removal takes the whole tree down. Trimming keeps the tree and improves it. The goal is to help the tree grow stronger, not to make it smaller.
Why it matters in Ritchie
A tree that is not trimmed accumulates dead wood. Dead branches are a hazard. They can fall on your house, your fence, your car or a person walking below. Dead wood also makes a tree look sick and draws insects and disease. Removing it improves the tree's ability to heal and compartmentalize wounds.
Branches that hang over your roof can damage shingles, gutters and flashing. They also block sunlight and trap moisture, which encourages moss and rot. Clearing the roof is one of the first things I do on most jobs. The same applies to branches over a lane or a driveway. They get in the way of vehicles and machinery, and they create a tunnel effect that holds snow and ice longer than it should.
A tree with an unbalanced crown is more likely to fail in a windstorm or under the weight of wet snow. If one side is much heavier than the other, the tree leans toward the light and stress concentrates on one side of the trunk. Bringing the crown back into balance reduces that stress and extends the tree's life.
Finally, a well-trimmed tree looks better. It shows the shape that the species naturally wants to take, rather than fighting against it or hiding under a tangle of crossing branches.
When to do tree trimming?
The best time to trim most trees in the Edmonton area is late winter or early spring, after the coldest weather has passed but before the buds break. This is when the tree is still dormant, so the cuts heal quickly once growth starts. For elm, the rules are stricter. The provincial elm pruning ban runs from April 1 to September 30 each year. During those months, I do not trim elm because the ban exists to slow the spread of Dutch elm disease. Outside the ban window, elm can be trimmed safely.
You do not have to wait for spring to call me. If a branch has broken in a windstorm, or if a dead limb is hanging over your house, I can come out right away. Storm damage does not wait for the calendar. Likewise, if you see a branch that is obviously dead, grey and brittle with no buds, that is a sign that the tree needs attention.
Watch for branches that are rubbing together, crossing over the crown, or growing straight downward. Watch for branches that are thicker than the main trunk they are attached to, which is a sign of poor structure. Watch for a tree that lists to one side. These are all signs that trimming would help. If you are not sure, call me and I will walk the property with you and explain what I see.
How I work in Bonnie Doon
The process starts with a phone call or a message. I ask you to describe the tree, the work you want done, and any concerns you have. If you mention hydro lines, I ask about their location. Then I schedule a time to visit and give you a free estimate.
On the day of the estimate, I walk around the tree with you. I point out the dead wood, the crossing branches, the areas where the crown is unbalanced. I explain what I plan to cut and why. I answer your questions. I do not try to sell you work you do not need. If the tree is healthy and well-shaped, I tell you that. If it needs trimming, I explain what the result will look like.
Once you approve the estimate, I schedule the work. On the day of the job, I arrive with my truck, my chipper and my climbing gear. I set up my work zone and make sure the area is safe. Then I climb the tree myself and start removing the branches we discussed. As I cut, I feed the smaller pieces into the chipper. The larger sections I cut into lengths that fit in my truck. When the trimming is done, I clean up all the debris from the ground, rake the area and leave your property the way I found it, only better.
The whole job, from first call to final cleanup, is straightforward. I do the work myself, so there is no crew standing around, no confusion about what was supposed to happen, and no surprises.
The situations I run into
Most of my trimming work falls into a few categories. The most common is general maintenance trimming, where a tree has accumulated dead wood and a few crossing branches, and the crown has become a bit unbalanced. This is the work that keeps a tree healthy and looking good for years.
Clearance trimming is the second category. You want the branches cleared away from your roof, your lane, your driveway or a fence. I remove the branches that are in the way and shape the tree so it does not grow back into the same space right away. This is very common on the older streets where trees have been growing for decades and have learned to grow around houses and wires.
Storm damage is the third category. A windstorm or heavy wet snow has broken branches, and they are hanging or have fallen. I remove the broken wood and trim back to a branch collar or a lateral branch so the tree can heal properly.
Structural pruning is less common but important. This is work on a younger tree, usually five to fifteen years old, where I remove competing leaders or branches that are growing at poor angles. The goal is to set the tree up for a healthy life, so it does not develop structural problems later.
Finally, there is the case where a tree does not need trimming at all. If you ask me to trim a tree and I walk around it and see that it is healthy and well-shaped, I tell you that. I would rather keep a client by being honest than oversell a job.
